Famously penned by Gerald Genta, the Royal Oak 5402 was released by  in 1972, forever changing the face of modern watchmaking. In 2012, the manufacture released the reference 15202 - in steel and rose gold - to mark the first Royal Oak's 40th anniversary. Seven years later, the manufacture came out with the 15202BC, with a white gold case and salmon dial, as a boutique-only edition.

A striking combination

This 15202BC combines a white gold case, with a  "pink gold-tone" dial. In recent years, salmon dials have risen in desirability amongst collectors, on account of their striking colour and rarity. Audemars Piguet have only used them in a handful of their Royal Oak watches, making this reference all the more unusual and sought after. This piece harks back to the reference 14802ST, a limited edition made to celebrate the Royal Oak's 30th anniversary in 1992, of which a small handful were fitted with salmon dials. Since its released in 2019, it is understood that Audemars Piguet has produced no more than 75 pieces per year. 

This 15202 is also distinguished by the placement of the "AP" logo above 6 o’clock, compared to most modern interpretations of the Royal Oak typically bearing the "AP" logo at 12 o’clock. A further nod to , is the delicately textured "Petite Tapisserie" dial, which further emphasises the richness of the dial colour. A matching calendar disc is found at the 3 o'clock position, whilst the hands and hour markers are luminous filled.

When it was first released in 1972, the Royal Oak created an entire new category of collecting, namely luxury sports watches made from steel. One of the early advertisements from the period reads, "for the elite, the artist craftsmen of Audemars Piguet have created Royal Oak, a tribute to steel, the metal of the twentieth century, more difficult to fashion than fine gold." Though it might appear like stainless steel at first glance, the white gold case offers a certain sheen and heft on the wrist which makes it stand out. 

The Movement

The 15202BC  is powered by the ultra-thin AP caliber 2121, derived from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s legendary ultra-thin JLC 920 calibre movement. The caliber 2121 was based on the caliber 2120, an initial project of Jaeger LeCoultre in 1967, funded and contributed by Audemars Piguet, and famous for its adoption by Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. The ultra-thin automatic 2121 calibre features 36 working jewels, Gyromax balance and four ruby wheels to support the full-diameter rotor, which runs on a beryllium rail for stability. 

The Set

This Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15202BC is accompanied by its outer paper box, inner wooden box, warranty card, warranty booklet and movement manual. The original white gold bracelet includes a full set of links, as confirmed by the manufacture. Though the watch was only recently sold, it comes with a complimentary service and case refinishing from Audemars Piguet, to be claimed after purchase.

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Closer look